The garden of five senses in the French mediaeval town of Yvoire was an unexpected find, its tranquil, timeless setting a striking contrast to the previous day’s adventures.
I had travelled with a friend, whose son is an electronic, world, and jazz musician, to the Caribana electronic music festival in Nyon, near Geneva. This is an annual precursor to the better-known Paléo festival, where concerts and shows across eight stages draw a mid-summer crowd of around 250 000.
Set on the shore of Lake Geneva, the concert was a blend of stunning natural beauty and hypnotic, high-energy beats. Lights flashed and lasers cut from a waterborne stage tethered to the bank. Now and again, a festival-goer dived into the lake to cool off between sets, to the consternation of the Swiss security guards.
The following morning, after some strong coffee, we joined families and couples boarding the ferry to Yvoire in France. Clearly the done thing is to take granny and grandpa, or your latest love interest, across Lake Geneva for lunch in this pretty port town.
The ferry trip took less than half an hour, and suddenly we found ourselves in France. Restaurant tables covered with red-checked tablecloths spilled out onto the pavements, delis displayed mouthwatering pâtés, mustards, honeys and olives, and boutique shopfronts drew one in with displays of colourful beach kaftans and Italian handbags.
But then a waft of scent drew us to a row of sumptuous roses, whose stems clung to ancient stone walls, over which tendrils of greenery hung, enticing us to discover what lay beyond.
A modest sign indicated this was the Jardin des Cinq Sens (Garden of Five Senses), and we found ourselves in a series of interleading gardens, where we were encouraged to touch, taste, sniff, admire and explore.
Each small section proferred its particular magic: Alpine herbs thrived on the banks of a trickling stream, a series of wicker baskets overflowed with edible herbs and flowers. Tactile plants presented fascinating textures and shapes, and rambling roses and cascades of jasmine scented the air.
We learnt that about 40 years ago, local gentry Anne-Monique and Yves d’Yvoire had transformed the former vegetable garden of their adjoining castle into this maze-like garden, inspired by initiatory journeys described in mediaeval literature.
“The journey through the labyrinth is an evocation of the path of life,” I read on a website. “Transported into a plant dream, the walker (re)discovers the universe, (re)awakens his senses, to finally (re)discover himself.”
On a more down-to-earth note, the garden shop was exquisite, stocked with beautiful flower cards, books, insect houses and gardening tools.
The Garden of Five Senses is now listed by the French Ministry of Culture as a Remarkable Garden. Whether you’re a gardening fan, a photographer, or just looking for a peaceful spot to muse and wander, this little corner of France is the perfect spot to slow down and enjoy the moment.
How to get to the garden: Yvoire is a mediaeval village on the south-western, French shore of Lake Geneva. The ferry from Nyon in Switzerland, to Yvoire in France takes 20-25 minutes . Ferries run several times a day, especially in the warmer months.
Opening times: April-September 10h00-18h30 (ticket office closes 17h30). September-October 10h00-17h30 (ticket office closes 16h30). Check exact dates and find out more here: https://www.jardin5sens.net/en/visitor-information/
Tickets: Adults 15€ and children 8.50€. Entrance is restricted to a limited number of people at a time.
© Judy Bryant
